Can you believe it is already March?! I can’t. I heard a funny story from my good friend Sahir the other day. He said that everyone thinks of Peace Corps in different time intervals. 26 months, two years, 791 days, or three babies. That’s right, three full pregnancy cycles, after which he proceeded to tell me we had just birthed our first Peace Corps baby. I am still not entirely sure how I feel about that image, but the point is we have been here quite a long time, and time still keeps flying by.
Interesting happening #1: Military Celebrations. On February 23rd we celebrated Defender of the Fatherland Day, or Soviet Army and Navy Day to commemorate all those who fought in the Soviet army, which is pretty much any male over 50 in Moldova, because they had a two-year service requirement in the Soviet Union. The biggest conflict during their lifetimes was the Soviet-Afghan war from 1979-1989, which was a Cold War proxy war. The United States backed the rebel groups that the Soviets were fighting. Between 526,000-2,000,000 civilians were killed and millions left their homes and became refugees, mostly in Iran and Pakistan. I saw a parade in Chisinau (the capital) for those who served in the Afghan war.
The second celebration was for those who fought in the Transnistrian War in 1992. This four-month conflict involved separatists in the new Republic of Moldova who had a strong Russian/Ukrainian identity and were backed by the Russian army. It ended with Transnistria remaining autonomous in practice, but it is still internationally recognized as a part of Moldova. I could do a whole post on this region, but for your purposes just know that Russia still has troops there and subsidizes gas and retirement plans (it is essentially a small Soviet time capsule in Europe). This is important because Moldova can never integrate in Europe (aka the European Union) without solving this “Transnistrian issue” which Russia prevents from happening. I encourage you to Google it.
My host father was enlisted in the Soviet army (though did not fight in Afghanistan) and fought in the Transnistrian war as a tanker, and thus adamantly participated in both of these celebrations. These were very formative times in his life, and he is a classic example of a loving father who likes sharing his war stories with anyone who will listen. I think the army embodied many of the ideals he holds dear: hard work, companionship, austerity. He is a ardent nationalist, so much so he refused to apply for Romanian citizenship with my host mother, which eventually had the consequence of him not being able to visit his new granddaughter born in January who lives in England (he eventually did submit his application a few years back but is still on the waiting list). He participated in a protest in the capital fighting for better services for veterans, particularly those who came back from the Transnistrian War without certain limbs. He is also head of a local veteran’s association and tries to participate in all military-related events when he is able to do so.
Interesting happening #2: Project Planning Workshop. Peace Corps held a workshop for us and our partners to learn how to create community projects, and specifically how to write a Peace Corps small grant. There will be more on what I am trying to do in a later post, but it was a fun experience and useful to both volunteers and their partners. The process has been difficult for me as I am trying to be a bridge between various organizations in town who have not-so-amicable relationships and convince them that we are all on the same team and can indeed work together. This in on top of intra-organizational conflicts which add a whole other dynamic. Prayers for me through this would be much appreciated.
Interesting happening #3: Orthodox Lent. Lent here is quite a serious ordeal (for those who practice it). Here is the run down of what I know and understand so far: Orthodox Lent begins on Clean Monday, runs 40 consecutive days, and ends two days before Palm Sunday (meaning when the Easters of the Eastern and Western Churches coincide, Clean Monday is the Monday before Ash Wednesday). Meat, fish, eggs, dairy products, wine, and oil are abstained from except of certain occasions (still not entirely clear on those). My host parents also said some people abstain from sex as well. There is a mass every day at the church and more prayer is encouraged. Sabbaths are taken seriously (and generally so throughout the year) with hair washing and laundry usually avoided. No parties are to be thrown during this time, even birthday parties, which just kind of sucks for those people whose birthdays always fall during this time (my mom said a lot of people do not even make them up later). I am sure there is plenty I am missing but I am just learning as I go and trying to stay in the loop and culturally informed.
Interesting happening #4: Martişor. Hailed by my work colleague as a uniquely Moldovan/Romanian tradition, Martişor welcomes in the coming of spring (March 1st) by celebrations and giving of small token/pins to family and friends that are to be worn close to your heart for a full month. I got to attend some lovely concerts. In tandem with this celebration because they are so close is International Women’s Day (March 8th), the de facto Mother’s Day in Moldova. We had a small gathering at the community center for the mothers of the kids in our afterschool club. The town had a small concert for women in town and we gave each of the elderly women we deliver food to a small flower and pin.
On a personal note the date for my GRE has been set! May 17th in Bucharest, Romania (they have it in Moldova but not until October). This, of course, assumes that all international borders will not be shut down due to the coronavirus. The Peace Corps has been given a 15-or-so country travel ban and Peace Corps Mongolia has been evacuated. The evacuation was not due to the outbreak of the virus but that almost all outgoing international flights were stopped due to the fact they routed through Asia, notably China and South Korea. Thus, the Peace Corps would have not been able to do emergency medical transport if needed. The first case in Moldova was reported on March 7th (from Italy as expected, because a huge number of Moldovans work there). No drastic measures have been taken by the government yet, but a lot of schools and institutions are prohibiting large gatherings. The schools have just closed for two weeks and any and all meetings with youth have been postponed. Looks like we will have a lot free time on our hands. Most volunteers are upset mostly because the outbreak ruins travel plans, including some that were already made prior to the outbreak.
And now for something entirely different: Belmont made the NCAA tournament! This is a miracle indeed because normally we win the OVC season play but lose in the OVC tournament, which decides who gets sent to the big dance. I encourage you to go watch their games. I have great respect for the sports programs at Belmont and the way they love and care for the athletes. That is about all that I have for this month. I still love letters if you choose to write and love sending people back small souvenirs from Moldova. Feel free to simply write an email as well! I love hearing updates from people about their lives.
“Better is a dry morsel with quietness, than a house full of feasting full of strife…The beginning of strife is like the releasing of water, therefore stop contention before a quarrel starts…A friend loves at all times, and a brother is born for adversity.”
Proverbs 17: 1, 14, 17
Sean in Moldova-land 